New Delhi: Amol Kumar doesn’t like talking about himself too much. He’d rather let his crafted pizzas do all the talking. The owner and chef of Leo’s Artisan Pizza spends most days making doughs, experimenting with artisanal flour and cheeses such as Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano, while training others to make pies like he does.Delhi-based Leo’s was one of just two Indian brands that made it to a widely-followed ranking of top 50 pizzas in the Asia Pacific, six months ago. The other was Pizzeria Da Susy, based in Gurgaon.These two pizzerias, based in the NCR, are among a crop of buzzy pie shops across the country that are winning over palates by upping the ante on quality, variety and taste, driven typically by a chef-entrepreneur passionate about cheeses, sauces and dough. Together, they are stealing away elite customers from conventional fast-food brands that dish out more staple fare that lends itself to standardisation.Kumar, 37, told ET he named his company MLTP Hospitality after his four dogs’ initials. As for the secret to his success, “We give a lot of attention to artisan dough, hand-stretched bases and cured meats,” he said. Homegrown gourmet pizza makers, which have emerged as challengers to global brands, are looking to win over palates by giving serious attention to ingredients. For some, it’s the dough that’s the trade secret; for others, the toppings or crust, tomatoes or cheese. None of them wants to give away too much, wary about revealing their competitive edge. Many have hired cheese artisans to curate platters of parmesan, mozzarella, bocconcini and burrata. They are also running dough-stretching workshops, importing spices and herbs, training pizzaiolos (makers of pizza) in their kitchens, and betting on secret sauces to draw in consumers.Pizza By The Bay and Joey’s in Mumbai; Da Suzy and Leo’s in Delhi-NCR; Tuscana Pizzeria in Chennai; The Blue Oven and Sam’s in Ahmedabad are among notable names that have emerged of late.Ram Prasad, MD at Chennai’s Tuscana Pizzeria, said his restaurants make gluten-free options, which are a big draw. “We are consistent in maintaining our recipe, taste and variety of bases – from regular, classic, wheat and multigrain,” he said.Not a trained chef, Kumar of Leo’s – with outlets in Vasant Vihar and Ghitorni, besides a satellite kitchen in Amar Colony – began by making every pizza himself for the first two years. “It’s hard to standardise dough, and even now, I make the dough every other day,” he said. “We import hard cheeses such as Grana Padano and Parmigiano-Reggiano since we don’t know how to make them here. We source fresh buffalo mozzarella and burrata cheese locally.”